The official photo shoot, images courtesy of LIFE archives.

1959. The official photo shoot, images courtesy of LIFE archives (Howard Sochurek)

The Khrushchev's Thaw was to bring change to many aspects of the Soviet life, and fashion was  one of them. The decision to allow the Soviet fashion designers to learn off their French counterparts was made as high as at the government level, which implicitly put fashion above politics or international ideological regimes. The colour of the Soviet Union, a generic grey, was about to be mixed up with the motley and lithe palette of the French fashion.

The fashion house of Christian Dior was chosen for many reasons. Firstly it was the epitome of elegance and style, defining the haute couture all over the globe. Secondly and most importantly, the Dior fashion was considered to be classic, regardless of the season or collection - and this suited the Soviet clothesmakers immensely. A "classic" cut of a suit would be considered "ideologically neutral" by the Soviets, as well as stable and practical. It would also mean lower production costs, as after having produced a set of patterns, the clothesmakers could go on releasing the same clothes for years.

Girls just want to have fun!

Girls just want to have fun!

Full of life.

Full of life.

The statue of Liberty, French style.

The statue of Liberty, French style.

Out in the streets, mesmerising the simple folk.

Out in the streets, mesmerising the simple folk.

GUM - the biggest and the most upmarket Moscow department store.

GUM - the biggest and the most upmarket Moscow department store.

Buying flowers from street vendors.

Buying flowers from street vendors.

After 1957, the teams of Russian fashion designers regularly visited the fashion houses of Christian Dior, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin. Special attention was also paid to the art of shop window displays: in Paris, no two were the same; in Moscow, it was a sad, standartised, withered look. In short, a lot was to be taken home.

This reminds me of the Sex and the City episode, season five - girls partying with sailors.

This reminds me of the Sex and the City episode, season five - girls partying with sailors.

I wish those girls had twitter - I wonder what they were thinking!

I wish those girls had twitter - I wonder what they were thinking!

Looking swell, Dolly!

Looking swell, Dolly!

15 323x500 Christian Dior in Moscow: a Fleeting Sense of Happiness

An alien on the street

Three graces

Three graces

The wow factor

The wow factor

However, things were so much behind in the USSR. The implementation of new styles and techniques was inhibited by the overall conservatism of the state. The decorative elements of dresses were often omitted (Russian women were considered to be above cheap frills), and the cuts were simplified not to let the seduction slip in. The magazines were scarce and of Polish or Czech origin, if one was lucky. The clothes on sale were identical and sad-looking- it was labelled practical. Overall, despite the efforts, the French fashion had very little influence over the Russian fashion until the very late 1980s.

Also at GUM

Also at GUM

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Related posts:

  1. British Fashion in Moscow, June 1956.
  2. More pictures of Soviet Moscow 1960s by Mark Riboud
  3. Sexy Soviet Underwear. Not!
  4. Soviet Brands: The Scent Of Communism. Part 1 of 2
  5. Catwalk Models With No Underwear On. Haute Couture Soviet Style.

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