Fashion in the USSR. DIY.

Dur­ing the Soviet times fash­ion was first and fore­most, an instru­ment of pro­pa­ganda of hard work atti­tudes and edu­ca­tion of good taste. There­fore the way peo­ple were dressed was very strictly reg­u­lated – just like any­thing else, fash­ion had to be “planned” and “approved”.

Offi­cially the most pop­u­lar designs were the clas­sic ones. Not only were they set out to pro­mote the good taste of the clean cut and reserved ele­gance, it was also a very con­ve­nient way of pro­duc­tion:  once designed and approved, the clas­sic dresses and suits were not as respon­sive to changes in the trends and hence inex­pen­sive to main­tain. The often boring-looking pieces of cloth­ing were labelled as never going out of fash­ion and pro­moted as “eter­nally youthful”.

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Eter­nally youth­ful, isn’t it?

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The Soviet era cat­walk model — not too skinny, is she? C1960.

Such clothes were meant to also have a dis­ci­pli­nary influ­ence over the reg­u­lar folk, as they would set the “right” atti­tudes and lines of behav­iour. That, in 1960s, had devel­oped into the state reg­u­la­tions over the school uni­form, which was stan­dar­tised across the country.

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School boys

But back to the adults now. Gen­er­ally, due to the lack of new designs and the lim­ited stocks of the depart­ment stores, most Soviet peo­ple had more than a hum­ble wardrobe, com­pared to their West­ern coun­ter­parts. Usu­ally it con­sisted of two parts: the win­ter one (had to be solid, warm and inex­tri­ca­bly expensive):

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Pupils and mother with child

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Another queue. Even win­ters never stopped the Rus­sians from queu­ing up.

… and the sum­mer wardrobe. Pre­sum­ably these ones are dressed up for the occasion.

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A group of grad­u­at­ing high­school stu­dents cel­e­brate grad­u­a­tion by singing and danc­ing in the Red Square.

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A good half of sum­mer clothes any­one owned could have been handmade.

Oh, DIY was very pop­u­lar in the USSR. Lit­er­ally every­body would dream of own­ing a sewing machine and then the pat­terns of stan­dard­ised gar­ments would be shared among many and trea­sured for gen­er­a­tions. The apt ones would make every­thing, from aprons (pic­tured) to bras and swim­suits. Note: this is not a modern-day pat­tern col­lec­tion, those Soviet ones were scaled down so you’d have to recon­struct it to the real size.

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Oh well, no won­der every sec­ond Soviet was an engineer.

The most suf­fered were, under­stand­ably, the younger ones, as their fash­ion ambi­tions and desires often went unno­ticed. Since in the late 1960s it was decided that jeans are unwel­come in the USSR, the prac­ti­cal­ity and com­fort of the denim gar­ments were out­lawed. How­ever, the denim failed to become ostracised – quite to the con­trary, it was well sought after: often a pair of jeans could cost as much a month’s salary.

This is obvi­ously a later pho­to­graph, when the reg­u­la­tions were loos­ened and the “fash­ion neigh­bour­hood watch” became less vig­i­lant. Scary, really.

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The younger ones

As the Iron Cur­tain was lift­ing, the West­ern ways of dress­ing were get­ting more expo­sure through the movies and tourists. As you can see the envi­ous faces on the back­ground, for­eign­ers did stand out.

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For­eign­ers in Moscow

The fun­ni­est thing is that the Soviet fash­ion is very hard to break into time peri­ods. Apart from sep­a­rat­ing the pre-war era fash­ion from the post war (the later one being non-existent), the bulk of it stretches for over 40 years right up to the 90s. Since then fash­ion has taken the form of a sex­ual com­pe­ti­tion — just like any­where else in the devel­oped world.

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15 thoughts on “Fashion in the USSR. DIY.

  1. With regards to school uni­form, there were some excep­tions. It was not stan­dard­ised across the whole coun­try. Most of it, but not all. For exam­ple, pupils in lithua­nia wore a dif­fer­ent style of uni­form. For boys, it was actu­ally a quite nice dark blue two-piece suit. It didn’t look any­thing like the army uni­form and had no chevrons or shiny but­tons.
    I should add, per­haps, that those baltic republics were liv­ing quite dif­fer­ently from the rest of the coun­try even in soviet times

  2. The info in the arti­cle above is very narrow-minded. There are so many things wrong with it that it’s almost impos­si­ble to com­ment. The ques­tion here is WHY the author twisted the truth. Com­plete rub­bish if I may say.

    • Thank you for your com­ment, how­ever bit­ter it is.

      Can you please just kindly point out a few things which are actu­ally untruthful?

      I’d say this arti­cle is one of the most objec­tive ones on this blog. The only thing I am a lit­tle unhappy about now, 7 months after I wrote this post, is the image of two stu­dent girls (cour­tesy of byaki. net). I do not think it was nec­es­sary to include it  — I wouldn’t have done it now.

      How­ever, if you are open to the dia­logue, I am more than keen to write about “Fash­ion in the USSR. Updated”.

      Kind regards,

      Eva

      • I did not mean my com­ment to be bitter:)

        I do not agree with the most of the arti­cle so I can­not argue point-by-point. It is not that the info is not true, it is so patchy, that it doesn’t por­trait the true pic­ture. I have seen hun­dreds of pics from the USSR times by dif­fer­ent ppl, dif­fer­ent republics, gen­er­a­tions etc., and most of them are nearly not as unat­trac­tive as those pub­lished here.

        I f I remem­ber cor­rectly USSR did not stop to exist in 1960’s. The pic­ture of for­eign­ers is there “illegally” — ppl in any coun­try would “envy” rich indi­vid­u­als. Try to com­pare close of ppl from same social backgrounds…

        This is only to point few… It is like pick­ing the works out of a poem.

        We could dis­cuss in fur­ther if u r interested.

        Regards,
        RAks

        • I actu­ally don’t find these pho­tos (or peo­ple on the pho­tos) unat­trac­tive. I think what is pic­tured quite neatly reflects what was happening.

          (Although I do think the win­ter clothes are a bit dull, but that was the real­ity — to own a win­ter coat was good enough, and it did not really mat­tered what it looked like, espe­cially if it had fur on the collar).

          As for the sum­mer clothes, they were quite typ­i­cal for that epoch — and by that epoch, I mean a long stretch of time between late 1950s till late 1970s, as the fash­ion was quite rigid.

          If you have any infor­ma­tion that dif­fers from my point of view — please, share! I intend to have at least two arti­cles about the Soviet fash­ion in the near future, so I always wel­come a conversation.

          Regards,

          Eva

  3. Thank you for this arti­cle. I’ve read sev­eral places about sewing machines in the Soviet Union – that they could be bought on install­ment plans (how? through whom?), that every­one wanted one, that even­tu­ally every­one had one, etc. I’d be really grate­ful if you could write some­thing about the sewing machine in the USSR. What brands were avail­able? Were they imports or USSR-made? Do you have pho­tos of any? Thanks!